Staffordshire Oatcakes Recipe | Moorlands Eater (2024)

Staffordshire Oatcakes are a regional speciality of The Potteries and north Staffordshire. Unlike the biscuity Scottish oatcake, these are soft, oatmeal pancakes that are lightly risen thanks to the inclusion of yeast. Most often eaten alongside or filled with traditional breakfast foods like sausage, bacon, mushrooms, or tomatoes, plus cheese, they make a hearty breakfast, brunch, or lunch.

Needing just a handful of simple ingredients (oatmeal or porridge oats, flour, yeast, salt, water and/or milk), full-flavoured Staffordshire Oatcakes are cheap and easy to make at home.

In this post, besides my own recipe, you’ll find some background and history to the versatile oatcake.

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WHAT ARE STAFFORDSHIRE OATCAKES?

If you don’t have a connection to the English county of Staffordshire, you probably haven’t heard of Staffordshire Oatcakes. You could even be forgiven for assuming they’re a version of crunchy Scottish Oatcakes. But you’d be wrong. Staffordshire Oatcakes are soft, yeasted oatmeal pancakes and a regional speciality.

They’re usually eaten hot for breakfast, brunch or lunch with traditional British breakfast foods like sausages, bacon, mushrooms, tomatoes, and often cheese. They might accompany a full English breakfast instead of, or sometimes as well as, toast. They’re also eaten filled with some of the above goodies, maybe with ketchup or brown sauce, then rolled or folded.

Cheap, tasty and filling, I think Staffordshire Oatcakes deserve to be much more widely known.

HISTORY OF THE STAFFORDSHIRE OATCAKE

Although particularly associated with the six towns that make up the Staffordshire Potteries (which became the centre of world ceramics production in the Industrial Revolution), the history of the Staffordshire oatcake most likely goes back much further than that.

LEAVENED PANCAKES & GRIDDLE CAKES

In Elizabeth David’s epic English Bread and Yeast Cookery (Penguin, 1979), they’re listed as one of the ‘leavened pancakes and all the tribe of griddle cakes’ that allow the use of flours such as barley, buckwheat and oatmeal which aren’t wholly suitable for regular loaves of bread. Also, as humble cottages wouldn’t have had an oven, the only homemade bread would have been those baked on a griddle, hearthstone or bakestone. These, she says, included pancakes, pikelets, barley cakes and oatcakes.

OATS

Given all that, plus the fact that wetter, more northerly areas of Britain are more suited to growing oats rather than wheat, it’s not surprising that there exist versions of oatcakes other than Scottish and Staffordshire. Elizabeth David cites Welsh Oatmeal Pancakes, Lancashire Oatcakes and Yorkshire Riddle Bread. Most like the Staffordshire variety, although not included in David’s book, are Derbyshire oatcakes. However, these tend to be larger, heavier and thicker.

Although almost thought of as a super-food today, oats were previously regarded as inferior to wheat. Even, perhaps, fit only for animal feed. In his 1776 biography of Samuel Johnson, James Boswell comments, on discovering oatcakes served at breakfast in Johnson’s hometown of Lichfield, ‘It was pleasant to me to find that oats, the food of horses, were so much used as the food of the people’.

THE INDUSTRIAL REVOLUTION & BEYOND

In the industrial age, the Staffordshire oatcake became a staple for workers in the Stoke-on-Trent potteries. According to local historian Fred Hughes, farm labourers brought the tradition with them when they came to work in the factories. Cheap and portable, oatcakes became so commonplace that every terraced street had an oatcake shop alongside the grocer, pub, and fish and chip shop. Often these were hole-in-the-wall affairs: ordinary houses selling homemade oatcakes through the window.

There are still around 20 – 30 oatcake shops in Stoke-on-Trent, plus some in other parts of north Staffordshire such as Leek. Some make oatcakes in the traditional way, hand mixing and hand pouring onto a baxton (from the words bakestone/backstone). Others are mass produced, machine poured, and cooled by fans. You can buy a batch to take home, heat and eat, or buy them ready filled to eat on the go. You’ll also find oatcakes on breakfast, brunch, and lunch menus all over North Staffordshire.

My own village is home to a mobile oatcake van that appears at markets and food events. You might even spot oatcakes from a couple of the big producers in the odd local supermarket.

SPREADING THE WORD

So, it seems that Staffordshire Oatcakes are thriving on their home turf. But I don’t think they’re very well-known elsewhere, despite the annual Oatcake Day often trending on Twitter. I’d like to think that last year’s episode of BBC Radio 4’s The Food Programme, all about oatcakes in Stoke-on-Trent, spoke to a new audience. And perhaps the recent development of oatcake mixes, shipped to ex-Stokies far from their nearest oatcake shop, will help spread the word elsewhere.

But I think there’s yet another way to get Staffordshire Oatcakes in more homes. By making them from scratch, and very cheaply, in our own kitchens.

MY STAFFORDSHIRE OATCAKES

Just as every oatcake shop is said to have its own (secret) recipe, what follows is my way of making of oatcakes. I don’t claim they’re more authentic than any others, they’re just how I like them after tinkering with the recipe over the years. If you’re making Staffordshire Oatcakes for the first time, use my recipe as a starting point but feel free to adapt it to your own tastes.

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INGREDIENTS FOR STAFFORDSHIRE OATCAKES

As you’d expect from a food associated with working people, the ingredients to make Staffordshire Oatcakes need not be expensive.

OATMEAL

In the UK, oatmeal is made from ground oats. For readers in the USA, what you call oatmeal is our porridge. Oatmeal is sold as either fine, medium or coarse, and you’re more likely to find it in a health food shop than a supermarket. You might see packages labelled ‘oat flour’, but these can expensive. I saw some at £4 for 450 grams. Compare that to a local independent shopwhere I buy 500 grams of oatmeal for just 80p.

If you can’t find oatmeal, you can easily make your own anyway. Simply whizz rolled oats or porridge oats in a blender or food processor. Fine or medium ground is best for Staffordshire Oatcakes. By the way, if you see oat bran for sale that’s not the same thing at all and isn’t suitable for oatcakes.

FLOUR

Oatcakes in Staffordshire and elsewhere may originally have contained oatmeal as the only flour. But these days Staffordshire Oatcakes pretty much always contain a proportion of wheat flour. That’s because oats contain virtually no gluten, so combining them with gluten-containing flours makes them both lighter and, I suspect, less likely to tear.

I find that half oatmeal and half wheat flour gives a good texture while still being satisfyingly oaty. But you can experiment with more oatmeal and less flour to see what suits you. It’s also up to you whether you use all wholemeal, all white, or a combination. My preference is for mainly wholemeal with a little white for lightness.

Another choice is whether to use plain flour or bread flour. Using bread flour gives strength to the oatcakes, making them less likely to break when turning or folding. Personally, I prefer the slightly chewier texture too. But ordinary plain flour can be substituted if liked.

YEAST

Traditional oatcakes would have been made with fresh yeast or, further back, perhaps some version of a sourdough starter. But dry yeast is more readily available, convenient, and has a relatively long shelf-life. I always use ones labelled ‘fast acting’, ‘instant’ or similar. This means it doesn’t have to be activated before adding to the dry ingredients. This is the type you need for my recipe.

BICARBONATE OF SODA: YES, OR NO?

Many ready-made oatcakes, and the oatcake mixes that have recently come on the market, often contain the raising agent bicarbonate of soda. But I find it unnecessary with yeast risen homemade Staffordshire Oatcakes. More than that, I think bicarb can give an unpleasant tang. So, I stick to using it for things like Soda Bread. But if you want to include some in yours to make the batter bubblier, then it’s usual to add a teaspoonful after the batter has proved.

WATER AND/OR MILK?

As a cheap foodstuff, the only liquid in traditional oatcakes would surely have been water. But a mix of half milk and half water is now common for homemade versions as it gives better flavour. If you prefer water only, I recommend adding a teaspoon of sugar to the flour. This will help feed the yeast in the absence of the lactose (a type of sugar) found in milk.

SALT & FAT FOR COOKING

The only other ingredients you’ll need are salt for flavour and some fat for cooking the oatcakes. For the initial cooking I use sunflower oil as it has a neutral flavour. I make a whole batch of oatcakes in one go, then reheat as needed, sometimes using other fats depending on what I’m eating them with. I’ll talk more about that further on.

MAKING THE BATTER: WARM OR COLD?

To make the Staffordshire Oatcake batter, we put the oatmeal, the flours, the dry yeast, and salt into a bowl. Then the combined milk and water is stirred in to create a thinnish batter. The desired consistency is often compared to that of single cream. Once it’s sat for a while it will thicken as the oatmeal is absorbed. But don’t worry too much at this stage, a little more liquid can be added later.

The ideal temperature for yeast to ferment is said to be 38 degrees centigrade. So, in theory, that’s the temperature the liquid should be. But there’s actually a huge range of temperatures that will get yeast working.

If you’ve seen any of my overnight bread recipes, you’ll know that I make doughs with water straight from the tap and/or milk from the fridge. The yeast will work at these temperatures, but it will take considerably longer to get going. On the plus side, longer fermentation should give better flavour. So, if you want to make the batter the night before, then just add the liquids cold, cover, and leave overnight.

THERMOMETER OR FINGER?

However, if you want to cook the oatcakes the same day, you’ll need to heat the milk and water. As I have a food thermometer, I just pop the liquid in the microwave and gradually heat it, taking its temperature every few seconds or so. If you don’t have a thermometer, then you can judge by putting your finger in the liquid. As 38 degrees is just above normal body temperature, it should feel pleasantly warm rather than hot. If in doubt, err on the side of cooler: if the liquid is too hot then it will kill the yeast.

Unless you’re using the overnight method, the batter should ideally be left somewhere warm. I put it in my small top oven which I’ve previously heated for a few minutes then switched off. Depending on the temperature (not too hot, remember), the batter will take 15 – 30 minutes to start looking bubbly and foamy. That means it’s ready. Those of you who want to include bicarbonate of soda whisk it in now.

COOKING STAFFORDSHIRE OATCAKES

If you’ve cooked Traditional English Pancakes, then you’ll have no problem with Staffordshire Oatcakes.

THE FRYING PAN & THE HEAT

For most home cooks, it’s easiest to use a shallowish, non-stick frying pan or crepe pan rather than a griddle. I do have an electric griddle but prefer the nice round shape I can get with a pan. It’s one I bought many years ago for making Indian dosa and it’s perfect.

The Staffordshire version of oatcakes are usually between 15 – 18 centimetres (6 – 7 inches) in diameter so this is the size pan you’ll need. Everyone will have their own idea of how thick or thin an oatcake should be. I lean a little to the thinner side so find 100 ml of batter just right for my 18-19 cm pan. For this batch, after adding an extra splash of water to get it back to single cream consistency, I conveniently had 800 ml of batter. Perfect for making 8 oatcakes.

I cook them over medium-high heat. My electric hob goes up to 6 and I have it at 4. If you’re making thicker oatcakes, they might take a little longer so turn the heat down a smidgen if they darken too quickly. You need very little oil in the pan: when it’s hot I brush some over then pour off the excess.

FRYING THE OATCAKES

Before pouring in your first lot of batter (I transfer it to a jug to make this easier), give it a quick whisk to reincorporate any solids that have sunk to the bottom. Then, as you pour the batter into the hot pan, lift and tilt so it runs and flows to completely cover the base. If your pan is hot enough, you should immediately see bubbles forming and popping. Leave the pan on the heat until the underneath is warmly golden brown: use a spatula to peek. The upper side should look dry with no liquid batter. This should take 1 ½ – 2 minutes but don’t attempt to turn too soon or the oatcake may break.

When the first side’s done, use a spatula to turn over the oatcake. Alternatively, if you’re completely reckless, you can flip it. Cook the other side for a similar length of time: it should be set and covered in darker brown patches. Transfer the finished oatcake to a cooling rack or a plate, then re-oil the pan and continue making oatcakes until all the batter is used up. Stack the cooked oatcakes on top of each other, and don’t forget to give the batter a good stir before pouring each time.

And that’s all there is to it. With a bit of practice, you’ll be making the oatcakes quickly and easily. Don’t worry if your first one is far from perfect though. That’s often the way. Just keep going and you’ll find the heat, timing and rhythm that works for you.

STORING & REHEATING STAFFORDSHIRE OATCAKES

Kept in a polythene bag, on a plate covered in cling film, or in an airtight container, oatcakes will keep fresh for two or three days. I store mine in the fridge or, if they’re not all going to be eaten within two days, I freeze them. You could stack them with greaseproof paper or clingfilm in between so you can take out just as many as you need and defrost. But I roll up each one and freeze them spaced apart on a clingfilm-lined tray. When frozen I transfer them to a freezer bag. Great for impromptu meals, I usually defrost in the microwave.

Because oatcakes reheat so well, even if I’m eating them soon after cooking, I don’t bother to keep them warm. The quickest way to reheat, if you don’t mind hot and floppy, is in the microwave. But a frying pan or under the grill is much nicer. I most often go for the pan or, so I can prepare two at a time, my electric griddle.

If I’m having the traditional sausage or bacon with them, I reheat the oatcakes in a smear of the meat’s cooking fat. I wipe out the pan, leaving just a little of the fat behind. Then I put in the oatcake and cook until the underside is hot and slightly crispy, turn over and repeat. When there’s no meat fat, such as for a simple cheesy oatcake, I’ll reheat in a little butter.

Apart from a plain oatcake for dipping with a full English breakfast, my favourite is a filling of cheese, sausage, and brown sauce. I reheat the first side as above, turn, and sprinkle with grated cheese. Once that’s starting to melt nicely, I put on the hot sausages plus a squirt of brown sauce. While a rolled oatcake is good for transporting or eating on the go, at home I prefer to just fold them. I reckon you can also get more filling in a folded oatcake!

A TRADITION REVIVED

For a while, it looked like the Staffordshire oatcake was dying out. But with more people developing an interest in regional and traditional British foods, it’s future in its homeland seems secure. I think it would be great though if that love of oatcakes could be spread wider by home cooks learning how to whip up a stack.

Cheap and easy to make with readily available ingredients, versatile (as with other pancakes, you can even eat them with sweet fillings) there’s no reason at all why the rest of the country can’t fall in love with Staffordshire Oatcakes too.

Have you made my Staffordshire Oatcakes? I’d love to know what you thought, especially if you’ve never eaten oatcakes before.

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